How to Backwash Your Sand Filter
Step-by-Step — S310T Sand Filter
- 1Turn the pump OFF at the breaker or controller. Never move the valve while the pump is running.
- 2Move the multiport valve handle to BACKWASH.
- 3Turn the pump ON. Run for 1–2 minutes until the sight glass (eyeglass) runs clear.
- 4Turn the pump OFF. Move the valve to RINSE.
- 5Turn the pump ON. Run for 30–60 seconds to settle the sand back into place.
- 6Turn the pump OFF. Move the valve back to FILTER. Restart the pump normally.
When to backwash: When your filter pressure gauge reads 8–10 PSI above your normal baseline. Write your normal PSI down the first week and use it as your reference all season.
⚠ Never move the multiport valve while the pump is running. Always shut the pump off first and wait for water to stop before repositioning. Moving under pressure damages the spider gasket inside the valve.
Pump Won't Prime
Step-by-Step — TriStar VS Pump
- 1Turn the pump OFF at the breaker completely.
- 2Remove the pump strainer lid and clear any debris from the basket.
- 3Inspect the lid O-ring — must be soft, pliable, and seated in the groove. Cracked or missing = no seal. Replace before continuing.
- 4Use a garden hose to fill the pump basket completely with water.
- 5Replace the pump lid — hand tight only. Do not over-tighten.
- 6Confirm all valves are fully open and multiport is on FILTER.
- 7Turn the pump on at high RPM (3,450). The basket should fill with water within 60–90 seconds.
- 8Still won't prime after 2–3 attempts? Shut it off and call Blue Bottom Pools. Do not keep trying.
⚠ Never run the pump dry. If water isn't flowing within 90 seconds, shut it off immediately. Running without water burns out the mechanical seal and destroys the impeller — neither is warranty covered.
How to Prime Your Vacuum Hose
Step-by-Step — Manual Vacuum
- 1Attach the vacuum head to the telepole and connect the vacuum hose to the vacuum head.
- 2Lower the vacuum head to the bottom of the pool and let the hose trail along the water surface.
- 3Hold the open end of the hose directly in front of a return jet until all air bubbles stop coming out. The hose is now full of water.
- 4Keep your thumb firmly over the open end to hold the water in as you walk it to the skimmer.
- 5Remove the skimmer basket. Connect the hose to the vacuum plate or directly into the skimmer suction port — keeping your thumb over the end until fully seated.
- 6The pump will pull suction through the vacuum head immediately. You're ready to vacuum.
Losing suction while vacuuming? Air got back in the hose. Lift the connection at the skimmer, re-prime at the return jet, and reconnect. Also check for cracks in the hose or loose connections at the vacuum head.
Heavy debris on the bottom? Set multiport to WASTE before vacuuming. This sends dirty water directly out instead of through your filter. You'll lose some water — top off after.
Multiport Valve — Position Guide
| Position | What It Does | When To Use It |
|---|---|---|
|
FILTER
Normal operation
|
Water passes through sand, gets cleaned, returns to pool | Every day — your standard setting |
|
BACKWASH
Cleaning the filter
|
Reverses water flow through sand, flushes dirt out to waste line | When PSI rises 8–10 above normal |
|
RINSE
After backwash
|
Settles sand back in place, clears lines before returning to filter | Always run 30–60 seconds after every backwash |
|
WASTE
Bypasses filter
|
Sends water directly to drain — bypasses sand completely | Vacuuming heavy debris, lowering water level |
|
RECIRCULATE
Bypasses sand
|
Circulates water without filtering — keeps water moving | Adding chemicals, treating algae, filter needs service |
|
CLOSED
Shuts off flow
|
Stops all water flow through the filter completely | Equipment service only — never run pump on CLOSED |
⚠ Never move the multiport valve while the pump is running. Always shut the pump off first and wait for water movement to stop.
Salt System — Hayward AquaRite S3
Key Settings
Ideal salt level: 2,700–3,400 ppm
Start output at 50% and adjust based on water tests.
Use only 99% pure NaCl — no rock salt or additives.
Add salt directly to pool with pump running — never through skimmer.
Wait 24–48 hours after adding salt before testing.
Inspect cell every 3 months for calcium buildup.
Indicator Lights
● Generating
Normal — producing chlorine.
● Check Salt
Test level — may need salt.
● Check Cell
Inspect for calcium buildup.
● High Salt
Partially drain and refill.
● No Flow
Check pump and flow switch.
● Low Temp
Water too cold. Normal in fall.
Salt System — Hayward Goldline
Toggle Switch — Off / Auto / Super Chlorinate
OFFSystem disabled
AUTONormal — leave it here
SUPER CHLORINATE100% output / 24 hrs
OFF — Salt cell is completely disabled. Pump can still run but no chlorine is being produced. Use when shocking with liquid chlorine, adding chemicals, or closing for the season.
AUTO — Your normal everyday position. System produces chlorine automatically based on your output % setting. Leave it here all season.
SUPER CHLORINATE — Runs the cell at 100% for 24 hours then automatically returns to AUTO. Use after heavy bather load, a big rainstorm, or when water starts looking dull. Not a substitute for shocking with chemicals.
Output % Setting
Start at 50% at the beginning of the season.
Increase if chlorine tests low. Decrease if it tests high.
Hot weather and heavy bather load — bump it up.
Cooler temps and light use — lower output is fine.
Always test water before adjusting. Don't guess.
Indicator Lights
● Generating
Cell is producing chlorine normally.
● Inspect Cell
Check for calcium scale. Call us.
● Add Salt
Salt is low — test and add as needed.
● High Salt
Too much salt — drain and refill.
● No Flow
Check pump. Flow switch may need service.
● Low Temp
Water below operating temp. Normal in spring/fall.
Salt level target: 2,700–3,400 ppm. Use only 99% pure sodium chloride. Add directly to pool — never through the skimmer. Allow 24–48 hours to dissolve before testing.
⚠ Inspect Cell light on? Don't ignore it. Calcium buildup reduces chlorine output and shortens cell life. Call Blue Bottom Pools — improper acid washing will permanently damage the cell.
Hayward Heater Error Codes
| Code | Meaning | Likely Cause | What To Do | Severity |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| LO | Low water flow | Dirty filter, closed valve, clogged basket | Check PSI, clean baskets, confirm valves open. Call us if it persists. | Medium |
| HH | High limit / overheat | Heater overheating, restricted flow | Shut heater off. Check flow and filter. Let cool. Call us. | High |
| E1 | Ignition failure | Gas not on, igniter issue, dirty burner | Confirm gas is on. Try restarting once. Call us if it recurs. | Medium |
| E3 | High limit switch open | Overheating, low flow, dirty filter | Shut heater down. Check filter and flow. Call us. | High |
| BD | Bypass / header issue | Leaking header gasket, low flow through heater | Do not run heater. Call us immediately. | High |
| IF | Ignition failure | Gas supply issue, failed igniter | Check gas is on. Call us for service. | Medium |
| CE | Communication error | Wiring issue, control board fault | Power cycle once. Call us if it returns. | Medium |
| AO | Auto shutoff | Safety shutoff — multiple possible causes | Note what was happening. Call us. | High |
When in doubt, shut it down and call. Never ignore a code or keep restarting equipment that keeps faulting. Call Blue Bottom Pools at (570) 592-5988.
Chemical Storage
Cool, dry locationHeat and humidity degrade chemicals and cause dangerous reactions.
Out of direct sunlightUV breaks down chlorine and active ingredients rapidly.
Not on concrete floorsMoisture wicks through — store on shelving.
Lids always tightLoose lids let moisture in and fumes out. Reseal after every use.
Separate shock from chlorineKeep oxidizers and tablets in separate areas.
Away from flammablesPool chemicals can ignite near gasoline or paint.
Locked from children & petsAll pool chemicals are toxic. Secure the storage area.
Dispose properlyNever dump old chemicals together. Contact your municipality for hazardous waste disposal.
⚠ Never mix pool chemicals together — ever. Even common chemicals can cause violent reactions, toxic gas, or fire when combined. Always add to pool water separately and wait 15–20 minutes between treatments.
What Goes In — and What Doesn't
✓ Fine for your pool
Shower before swimming — removes lotions and sweat
Water-soluble, swim-specific sunscreen
Pool toys and floats designed for pool use
Goggles and swimwear
Garden hose water to top off the pool
✕ Keep out of your pool
Heavy sunscreen and body oils — destroys water balance, clogs filters
Glass of any kind — impossible to fully remove
Food and drinks directly in the pool
Diapers — even swim diapers leak contaminants
Pets — animal dander rapidly consumes chlorine
Dirt-covered toys or outdoor equipment
Any household cleaning products
Seasonal Care
🌱 Opening — Spring
Schedule your opening early — Blue Bottom Pools books fast in May. Call before April.
Do not run equipment before a professional opening — risk of damage from debris and pressure in lines.
Expect chemistry to be off after winter — allow 48–72 hours to balance after opening treatment.
Pump standing water off your cover before removal — never pull a cover with water sitting on top.
🍂 Closing — Fall
Schedule closing before temps drop below 50°F — in NEPA, target mid-October.
Do not wait until the last minute. Freeze damage is expensive and not warranty covered.
Equipment must be properly blown out and plugged by a professional. Not a DIY job.
Monitor your cover through winter — excessive debris or water buildup can damage it.
Leaving for Vacation
Do not shut the pump off — your pool needs 8–12 hours per day to stay clean.
Set your pump timer before you leave and confirm it cycles correctly.
Shock the pool the night before you leave — start clean.
If on a salt system, confirm output is set appropriately before leaving.
If using a chlorinator, fill it with tablets before you go.
Ask a neighbor to check every few days — look for algae, unusual noises, or error codes.
Going away longer than 2 weeks? Call Blue Bottom Pools — we can schedule a check.
Test and balance water the day you return.
When to Call a Pro vs. Handle It Yourself
| Situation | Who Handles It | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Adding chemicals — chlorine, pH, shock | ✓ DIY | Test first, follow label, never mix |
| Backwashing the sand filter | ✓ DIY | Pump off first, then move valve |
| Cleaning the pump strainer basket | ✓ DIY | Always shut pump off first |
| Vacuuming the pool | ✓ DIY | Use WASTE for heavy debris |
| Priming the vacuum hose | ✓ DIY | Follow the steps in this guide |
| Pump won't prime after following steps above | ⚑ Call Us | Could be a seal, air leak, or plumbing issue |
| Any heater or heat pump error code | ⚑ Call Us | Do not repeatedly restart faulting equipment |
| Green or black algae that won't clear | ⚑ Call Us | Black algae needs professional treatment |
| Water loss beyond normal evaporation | ⚑ Call Us | Possible leak in plumbing, shell, or equipment |
| Grinding, screeching, or banging from pump | ⚑ Call Us | Shut it off immediately |
| Any electrical issue — breaker tripping | ⚑ Call Us | Never attempt electrical repairs yourself |
| Spring opening and fall closing | ⚑ Call Us | Improper winterization causes thousands in damage |
| Salt cell cleaning and inspection | ⚑ Call Us | Improper acid washing permanently damages the cell |
Still stuck? Just call or text Jay.
We set up your equipment and know your system. Most questions take 5 minutes on the phone. We'd rather walk you through it than have you chase a problem all week.
(570) 592-5988
Blue Bottom Pools · 131 Rock St, Hughestown, PA · Authorized Hayward Dealer · 20+ Years