My Pool Is Open.
What's Next?
Opening day is one of the best days of pool season — but what happens in the first two weeks after your pool opens determines whether you have a crystal-clear summer or a chemistry nightmare. Here's exactly what we tell every customer right after we open their pool.
Every spring, I open hundreds of pools across Northeast PA — from Clarks Summit to Mountain Top, Wilkes-Barre to West Pittston. And every year, I see the same thing: pool owners who think the hard part is over once the cover comes off. I get it. The water's blue-ish, the pump is running, and summer feels like it's finally here. But the first two weeks after opening are actually the most critical window of the entire season. What you do right now determines how the rest of your summer goes.
So let's walk through it — step by step. Think of this as what I'd tell you if I were standing in your backyard after finishing your opening.
Step 1: Get Your Water Tested First
I know it's tempting to just dump in a bag of shock and call it a day. Please don't. Adding chemicals to unbalanced water is like putting medicine into a sick patient who hasn't been diagnosed. You might fix one thing and blow up three others.
The very first thing you should do after your pool opens is get a proper water test. Not a test strip from a big box store — those are notoriously inaccurate. A real liquid test kit or, better yet, a professional water analysis. We offer free mobile water testing as part of every pool opening we do, and we can also come out separately if you need a mid-season reading.
Here's what you need to know and what the ideal ranges look like for a Northeast PA inground pool:
| Parameter | Ideal Range | What Happens When It's Off |
|---|---|---|
| Free Chlorine | 1–3 ppm | Too low: algae and bacteria grow fast. Too high: irritates skin and eyes. |
| pH | 7.4–7.6 | Low pH burns eyes and corrodes equipment. High pH makes chlorine nearly useless. |
| Total Alkalinity | 80–120 ppm | Low TA causes wild pH swings. High TA pushes pH up and causes scaling. |
| Cyanuric Acid (CYA) | 30–50 ppm | Too low and the sun destroys your chlorine in hours. Too high causes chlorine lock. |
| Calcium Hardness | 200–400 ppm | Low calcium leaches from your liner and equipment surfaces, causing damage over time. |
Always balance alkalinity first, then pH, then add chlorine last. Adding them in the wrong order wastes product and can create dangerous reactions in the water. This is one of the most common mistakes we see pool owners make every spring.
We carry E-Z Clor Alkalinity Up, pH Up, Calcium Elevator, and E-Z Clor Save (stabilizer) — everything you need to get your water balanced right from the start. Stop in or order through our site.
Not sure what your water needs? Book a free mobile water test — we come to you and give you a full professional analysis.
Book a Free Water TestStep 2: Shock It — Even If It Looks Clear
After a winter under a cover, your pool water has been sitting stagnant for six months. Even if it looks relatively clear when we pull the cover, there are contaminants — dead algae, bacteria, bather waste residue, environmental debris — that need to be knocked out before swim season starts.
We recommend shocking your pool at opening regardless of what the chlorine level reads. Think of it as a hard reset for your water. Shocking raises the chlorine to a breakpoint level that oxidizes all that organic material and gives you a clean baseline to work from.
The right time to shock is at dusk. UV from the sun destroys unstabilized chlorine rapidly — shocking at night gives the chlorine time to work without burning off before it can do its job. Run your pump overnight and retest in the morning.
We use and sell ReFresh 68% calcium hypochlorite shock — one of the strongest granular shocks available. Pre-dissolve in a bucket of water first, then broadcast around the perimeter with the pump running. One pound per 10,000 gallons as a starting point.
Shocking at opening isn't optional. It's the foundation of a clean, safe swimming season — even if the water looks fine.
Step 3: Run Your Pump Longer Than You Think
This is one I have to remind people of every single spring. After opening, your pool needs to turn over its full volume more frequently than it will mid-season. Cold water holds chemistry differently, debris is still settling, and your filter is doing heavy lifting after months of sitting idle.
For the first two weeks after opening, I recommend running your pump a minimum of 10 to 12 hours per day — ideally overnight and into the morning. If you have a variable speed pump, run it at a higher RPM during this period to maximize circulation and filtration. You can dial it back to a lower, more energy-efficient speed once your water is clear and balanced.
If you're running an older single-speed pump, this is actually a good time to talk about upgrading. Variable speed pumps are now required on new installs in Pennsylvania, and for good reason — they can cut your pool's energy cost by up to 90% compared to single-speed models. We install and service the full Hayward variable speed pump lineup.
A general rule: divide your pool's gallons by your pump's flow rate (in GPH) to get your turnover time. Run the pump at least one full turnover per day — two turnovers is better in the first two weeks post-opening. We can calculate this for you based on your specific setup.
Step 4: Add an Algaecide — Don't Skip This
May in Northeast PA is prime algae territory. The water is warming up, the sun angle is getting higher, and there's plenty of organic material coming off trees and decks and into your pool. Algae spores are everywhere and they are patient — they'll wait for any chemistry gap to take hold.
After shocking and balancing, add a quality algaecide to the water. This isn't a cure — it's prevention. Think of it as an insurance policy against a green pool. We carry E-Z Clor Algaecide Plus, which we've had great results with across hundreds of NEPA pools.
One important note: algaecide goes in after shocking, not at the same time. Wait at least 24 hours after shocking before adding algaecide, or the chlorine will simply break it down before it can do anything.
A non-foaming, broad-spectrum algaecide designed for inground pools. Add after shocking as a preventative measure, then dose weekly throughout the season as part of your maintenance routine. Available on our site and in our showroom.
Step 5: Set Up a Weekly Maintenance Routine
Here's the honest truth about pool ownership: the pools I see that are consistently crystal clear all summer long are the ones on a weekly maintenance schedule. It doesn't matter if it's us doing it or the homeowner — consistency is everything. A pool that's treated every seven days is dramatically easier to manage than one that gets attention when it looks like it needs it.
A proper weekly routine includes testing the water, adjusting chemistry as needed, adding chlorine tabs or topping off salt, brushing the walls and floor, skimming the surface, cleaning the skimmer baskets, and checking equipment operation. That's not a quick job if you're doing it right — which is why a lot of our customers hand it off to us.
Our weekly maintenance service covers all of that. We come out on a set schedule, test your water with professional equipment, treat accordingly, brush and vacuum, and leave you a note on what we found and what we did. You come home to a clean pool. That's the deal.
- ›Test water — chlorine, pH, alkalinity minimum
- ›Adjust chemistry based on readings — in the right order
- ›Add chlorine tablets or top off salt level
- ›Brush walls, steps, and floor
- ›Skim surface debris
- ›Empty skimmer and pump baskets
- ›Check filter pressure — backwash or clean if elevated
- ›Inspect equipment for leaks, unusual noise, or error codes
Let us handle it. Our weekly maintenance service keeps your pool clean all season — no hassle, no guesswork.
Schedule Weekly MaintenanceStep 6: Know Your Sanitizer Options
Once your water is balanced and your pool is clean, you need a consistent sanitizer strategy for the rest of the season. There are a few different approaches and they're not all equal for every pool type — particularly vinyl liner pools like most of what we work on here in NEPA.
Traditional chlorine tabs (trichlor): The simplest approach. Three-inch tabs in an inline feeder or floating dispenser dissolve slowly and maintain a consistent chlorine residual. This is what we recommend for most vinyl liner pools. We use Hayward inline feeders and carry E-Z Clor 3" Big Chlorine Tablets — a high-quality, stabilized tab that dissolves cleanly without leaving residue on your liner.
Salt chlorine generators: Salt systems are popular and they produce great water — softer, gentler, less smell. But here's what a lot of companies won't tell you: salt is corrosive to vinyl liners, particularly liners that are older or showing any signs of wear. If you have a vinyl liner pool and you're thinking about going salt, talk to us first. We'll assess your liner condition honestly before recommending it.
HydraPure UV + Ozone (AOP): This is what we recommend for vinyl liner pool owners who want the benefits of reduced chemical use without the risks of salt. The Hayward HydraPure system combines UV light and ozone to eliminate 99.9% of chlorine-resistant bacteria through Advanced Oxidation Process technology. It dramatically cuts your chlorine demand, produces softer water, and is completely liner-safe. It's an Expert Line product — only available through certified professionals like us — and it's one of the best upgrades we offer.
Combines UV and ozone technology for Advanced Oxidation Process (AOP) sanitization. Reduces chlorine demand significantly, eliminates chloramines, and is safe for vinyl liner pools. Works at 10–120 GPM with no bypass required. 3-year warranty. Available exclusively through certified Hayward professionals — call us to discuss installation.
Step 7: Give Your Equipment a Post-Winter Check
Your pump, filter, heater, and salt system just sat idle for six months through a Northeast Pennsylvania winter. Even if everything seemed fine when we opened it up, the first few weeks of operation are when hidden issues reveal themselves — a shaft seal starting to leak, a filter cartridge that needs replacing, a heater that's firing but not holding temperature.
Pay attention to the early warning signs. Unusual noises from your pump motor, reduced water flow through the returns, elevated filter pressure that doesn't drop after backwashing, a heater that's struggling to maintain temperature — all of these are things to catch early before they become expensive problems mid-July.
If anything seems off, give us a call before it gets worse. We offer service calls throughout the NEPA area and carry Hayward parts for most repairs. A service call now is a lot cheaper than an emergency equipment replacement in August.
The equipment problems we see in July almost always started as warning signs in May that got ignored.
Something not right with your equipment? Book a service call and we'll diagnose it before it becomes a bigger problem.
Book a Service CallThe Bottom Line
Getting your pool open is the starting line, not the finish line. The first two weeks after opening set the trajectory for your entire summer. Get the water tested and balanced, shock it properly, run the pump long hours, get an algaecide in the water, and set up a weekly routine that you'll actually stick to.
If that sounds like a lot — it is. That's why we're here. Blue Bottom Pools NEPA has been taking care of inground pools across Scranton, Wilkes-Barre, Mountain Top, Clarks Summit, and the surrounding communities for over 20 years. We handle everything from opening day through closing, and everything in between. One call, one company, all season long.
Have questions about your specific pool? Give us a call at (570) 592-5988 or reach out through our contact form. We're happy to walk you through it.
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We service inground pools across Scranton, Wilkes-Barre, Mountain Top, Clarks Summit, and all of Northeast PA. Openings, closings, weekly maintenance, water testing, equipment repair, and liner replacement — one company for everything.